An Evening at Hearst Castle

[Lzcutter]

One of the joys of living in California is that get away trips to other parts of the state are not that hard to do. And, surprisingly, large swatches of the state remain undeveloped due to being owned by the state or the oil companies.

Mr Cutter and I traveled to the Central Coast, one of our favorite hide-aways for a long weekend to celebrate our anniversary, 12 years now.

We love the Central Coast and have been going to Morro Bay for almost 15 years. Just up the road from Morro Bay is Hearst Castle, built by William Randolph Hearst and designed by Julia Morgan, one of the few (and foremost) female architects of her day.

The Castle has been part of the State Parks service since the late 1950s. In all the years that Mr Cutter and I have lived in the City of Angels, either separately or together, we have taken all four day time tours offered at the Castle.

The Evening Tour has often eluded us because a) it is so popular it sells out quickly and b) it is only offered a few months each year.

But this time we got lucky. Still nursing a bad, bad knee (a half knee really, braced up) and unable to venture the 350 steps involved in the Evening Tour, I called the Disability number and was told that the Limited Access tour was full with two people, one in a wheelchair.

I pleaded my case that I was not in need of a wheelchair, just couldn't climb stairs. That seemed to be the magic key. As long as I was not wheelchair bound, we could go on the tour.

The tour bus was set to leave the visitor's center at 6:10 pm, twilight time. The five minute ride up to the Castle became more enshrouded in fog as we climbed toward the Castle.

We could see the lights of the Castle, peeking through the fog as we approached.

We were able to disembark first and we were met by our tour guide, Larry Crawford. Larry would take the four of us around to the various buildings and sites in an electric cart, outfitted so that the lady in the wheelchair, Treena, could easily be taken on and off the cart in her chair.

The Castle at night is very different than seeing it in the daylight. Docents were mingling about dressed in vintage clothing from the 1930s and acting as characters invited by Hearst to the Castle.

The outdoor swimming pool, the Neptune, had steam rising off it in the chilly night air. We heard about the parties and the good times around the pool. The other 96 people on the tour began their tour of climbing and trying to get through all the sites in the allotted time and with everyone trying to see and hear the guides.

We had the luxury of taking our time and Larry was fabulous with lots of inside knowledge of the Hearst legend and the facts. He knew the architectural wonders to point out and it was, hands down, the best tour of the Castle we have ever had.

We saw the main Guest House where William and Marian lived while the Castle was being completed and then again towards the end of Heart's life when he could no longer climb the stairs of the Castle.

All three floors of the Castle were lit up and in some ways looked like Disneyland's Haunted Mansion with their glowing chandeliers. Inside, AP Gianinni (the owner and founder of the Bank of America (nee Italy) in San Francisco and Howard Hughes were playing chess - at least according the docents). Clark Gable was playing pool with a stylish model and about to lose his Packard. Another was playing "Someone to Watch Over Me" on the piano.

The kitchen was astounding. Larger than life with a professional floor mixer that stood four feet high, three ovens, a rotisserie, a steam table almost the length of the pantry as well as pots and pans that looked Goliath sized (the better to serve the party goers).

In the dining room, the table was adorned with Blue Willow china (the kind used for blue-plate specials during the Depression) and Ketchup and Mustard bottles from back in the day.

Too soon the tour was over and it time to get back on the bus.

But the memories linger of the Castle on the hill, shrouded in fog with it's alabaster light fixtures twinkling in the heavens.

If you ever get the chance to take the Evening Tour, do so.

You won't be disappointed.

[jdb1]

Thanks so much for this, Lynn. I just love historic restorations, and your description made me feel like I was there. Hearst Castle sounds like a lot of fun, and a restoration that doesn't take itself so seriously, as so many of them tend to do.

Pardon my ignorance: is Hearst Castle a separate place from San Simeon?

[MissGoddess]

Wonderful, Lynne! It was almost like being there. I can't believe I was so stupid as to never take the tour during my time in L.A.

Docents were mingling about dressed in vintage clothing from the 1930s and acting as characters invited by Hearst to the Castle.

Funny thing is, one time I was supposed to have gone and "auditioned" for one of those characters---Carole Lombard---and I got totally lost on the way there and missed out. I was all set, too, with my vintage dress and my hair was shorter then, I was a real ringer for Carole. What fun it would have been!

If I ever get back to California, I hope I can visit the Hearst Castle.

[Lzcutter]

Judith,

Hearst Castle is located in San Simeon on the Central Coast of California.

[Professional Tourist]

I took the basic daytime tour of Hearst Castle in 1991 during a trip down the California coast from San Francisco to Long Beach. I still remember that tour, and could never climb those stairs again! The evening tour sounds great -- thank you for sharing, Lzcutter.

[charliechaplinfan]

I regret than when we came to California 9 years ago, we had to miss out on Hearst Castle as we travelled up the Pacific Coast Highway from LA to San Francisco. We just couldn't pack it into our full schedule, gives us a reason to return, which we fully intend to do one day.

[markfp]

On my first visit to sunny California back in.... (well, a long time ago) I drove down the coast from San Francisco and spent an afternoon at Hearst Castle. It was a thrill that I remember to this day. One of the highlights for me was sitting in Hearst's private theater and watching films of the various celebrities who were invited there. Anybody, especially film buffs, who have the chance to visit should do so. It's well worth the trip. I'd love to see it at night.