The Designers

Discussion of the actors, directors and film-makers who 'made it all happen'
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moira finnie
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The Designers

Post by moira finnie »

A mention of Travis Banton on the boards today by Fernando made me wonder if others find the great (and not so great) clothes that women wore in old movies as fascinating as I do. Banton could make fantastic looking clothes that were contemporary or from a period, or, as in the case of The Scarlet Empress, his work might seem to be from another, amusingly surreal planet.

I would gladly don any duds made by Irene and the less well known Robert Kalloch, and think that they would easily be adapted to today, while others might prefer Adrian or Jean Louis. I love the period costumes of Walter Plunkett, Milo Anderson and Cecil Beaton. The only person whose outfits I don't think I would care to wear were those designed by Helen Rose*, (I think she made most women look like walking lampshades), while some might revere Edith Head, but I'd probably kill for a Givenchy, (only kidding).

I don't think that the best costumes could ever make up for a lack of storytelling skill on screen, but when done well, they do seem to add something to a story and characters.

Does anyone else enjoy the various costumes that added so much to classic films we love?

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*I was startled to read recently that director George Cukor, who rarely said anything negative publicly about any of the people he worked with, tried to avoid her costumes whenever he made his films at MGM. Btw, Miss Rose was also said to be one of the nicest people in the studio.
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rudyfan
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Re: The Designers

Post by rudyfan »

Give me Orry-Kelly any day. Especially if I had Kay Francis' figure. :D
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charliechaplinfan
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Re: The Designers

Post by charliechaplinfan »

I just love the work of the designers but am never sure who designed what or which designer worked at which studio.

I do know that at MGM the stars would wear more subdued outfits when they had a big moment on screen but for the lesser moments, say travelling somewhere the costumes would be elaborate. Costumes can liven up a dull movie. The best work for the actress so much that they become part of who she is (Givenchy and Hepburn).

Thanks Moira, I'm surprised we've never brought this up before.
Failure is unimportant. It takes courage to make a fool of yourself - Charlie Chaplin
Vecchiolarry
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Re: The Designers

Post by Vecchiolarry »

Hi Moira,

I am prejudiced for Jean Louis as he designed many things for my grandmother and I knew him and his wife, Maggie, quite well. He also designed for Edie Goetz and she was pretty much 'Empress' in Hollywood back then...

Too bad you don't like Helen Rose. I knew her too; she was a great lady, and she did a lot of Lana's things.

I knew Irene also, but not as well as some others at MGM. She sat at the next table in the commissary a couple of times and I have chatted to her on other occasions. I remember very well the day she died - tragic and so unnecessary.... Very sad....

I saw Walter Plunket twice during the filming of "Diane"... I don't think he liked me; as once I preceeding Lana onto the set in her full regalia and announced, "Here comes Lana in full sail"... (She looked like a sailing ship to me in those big skirts)...
He gave me a nasty look!!!

FYI -
Loretta Young loved Travilla - I don't think anyone's mentioned him yet!

Larry
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JackFavell
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Re: The Designers

Post by JackFavell »

I am the most fond of Bernard Newman's fashions for Ginger Rogers in the Fred-Ginger musicals. I think that these are perhaps the most perfectly designed clothes ever....and not just the gowns- Ginger's riding outfit in Top Hat is just about the most chic thing I have ever seen.

I also love Oleg Cassini's designs for Gene Tierney, although I think it's a little creepy dressing your spouse.
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knitwit45
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Re: The Designers

Post by knitwit45 »

Ginger used to insist she designed some of those fabulous clothes. The sequined gown she wore in one of the earlier movies was so heavy, it bruised poor ol' Fred's legs when it slapped against him as she twirled.
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Re: The Designers

Post by JackFavell »

Yeah, but how beautiful it looked while injuring Fred... :D
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mrsl
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Re: The Designers

Post by mrsl »

.
CCFan:

I'm with you. I don't as yet have the capacity to tie a particular style together with a certain designer. I know WHO many of them are, I look for the 'Costume Designer' for almost all movies I watch, but I'm going to have to start taking notes regarding looks of necklines, lengths, and fullness of skirts to start designating one from another. That will give me one more thing to think about while watching. I spent a large part of the afternoon on Google looking for sites that deal with design, but couldn't find one that paired style with name. One item I know is that whoever designed for The Lady Eve, is the one who came up with the semi-empire banded waistline for Barbara Stanwyck because she apparently was very high waisted and they had trouble fitting her, but imbD doesn't include the designer unless they were nominated for an award. This is interesting, I'm going to start sinking my teeth into this topic and come back at a later time to report my findings.
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Anne


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charliechaplinfan
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Re: The Designers

Post by charliechaplinfan »

Anne, do that, it will be so interesting to read what you've found out.

I love Ginger's outfits, she loved lovely dancing to Let's Face the Music and dance, the intro I have to Follow The Fleet slows down the sequence to show Fred getting hit in the kisser by the beaded sleeve of her gown, he's such a professional, he never stopped. If it wasn't beads it was feathers. The dresses are part of what make the Fred and Ginger films special.
Failure is unimportant. It takes courage to make a fool of yourself - Charlie Chaplin
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rudyfan
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Re: The Designers

Post by rudyfan »

charliechaplinfan wrote:Anne, do that, it will be so interesting to read what you've found out.

I love Ginger's outfits, she loved lovely dancing to Let's Face the Music and dance, the intro I have to Follow The Fleet slows down the sequence to show Fred getting hit in the kisser by the beaded sleeve of her gown, he's such a professional, he never stopped. If it wasn't beads it was feathers. The dresses are part of what make the Fred and Ginger films special.
I'll have to respectfully disagree with you here Alison, Fred Astaire made the Fred & Ginger films special. :D
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knitwit45
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Re: The Designers

Post by knitwit45 »

After the "feather episode", Fred always called her "Feathers". :D
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charliechaplinfan
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Re: The Designers

Post by charliechaplinfan »

rudyfan wrote:
charliechaplinfan wrote:Anne, do that, it will be so interesting to read what you've found out.

I love Ginger's outfits, she loved lovely dancing to Let's Face the Music and dance, the intro I have to Follow The Fleet slows down the sequence to show Fred getting hit in the kisser by the beaded sleeve of her gown, he's such a professional, he never stopped. If it wasn't beads it was feathers. The dresses are part of what make the Fred and Ginger films special.
I'll have to respectfully disagree with you here Alison, Fred Astaire made the Fred & Ginger films special. :D
That's alright, Fred Astaire makes any film special. Fred and Ginger are the tops. I could name individual dances that Fred danced with other partners but overall I prefer to dances in the Fred and Ginger movies. Fred and Ginger are a movie gold.

Back to the outfits. I watched Madame Bovary yesterday, the best and most original adaptation I've ever seen of Madame Bovary and the outfits are stunning, better even than Gone With the Wind all designed by Walter Plunkett.
Failure is unimportant. It takes courage to make a fool of yourself - Charlie Chaplin
feaito

Re: The Designers

Post by feaito »

In my opinion Travis Banton could well be Hollywood's most gifted costume designer. The clothes he designed for those golrious 1930s Paramount films are incredible. Marlene Dietrich, Mae West, Claudette Colbert, Carole Lombard, Kay Francis et al, never looked more alluring or ravishing. He was a genius.

I agree with Alison in that Jennifer Jones' costumes in "Madame Bovary" (1949) are terrific. I did not recall Mr. Plunkett had been designer. Miss Edith Head was another grand designer.

As for isolated stars or outfits, one of the most unforgettable sights in the history of Cinema -for me- is when one sees Audrey Hepburn dressed for the Larrabee's party in "Sabrina" (1954). Mis Hepburn epitomized the concepts of "elegance" and "class" and she looked fabulous all throughout her career.

Other memorable outfits are those worn by: of course Rita in "Gilda" (1946); Claudette Colbert in both "Sign of the Cross" (1932) and "Cleopatra" (1934); Grace Kelly in "To Catch a Thief" (1955); Liz Taylor in "A Place in the Sun" (1951), among the ones I can recall now.
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JackFavell
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Re: The Designers

Post by JackFavell »

Great points Feaito-

I was just appreciating the chic but oddly scary costumes Edith Head did for Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard. The styles are up to date fifties, but there are crazy additions and tweaks - like just a shade too much leopard print or lame, or weird frou-frou bits of tulle and feathers sticking up at strange angles. I was reminded of Banton's The Scarlet Empress a few weeks ago....like Norma Desmond had entered the fifties by way of Hollywood costume drama, or in certain scenes, by way of Great Expectations.
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